It has been years since we traveled without Westley, but with Retina Society coinciding with the first week of school, we took the opportunity to plan a 2-week couple’s itinerary through southern Spain and Portugal. Our delayed flights to Malaga allowed good use of lounge access at SFO and LIS and an early introduction to Portuguese fare during our layover. Despite the post-midnight car transfer to Granada, we picked up early morning churros and hot chocolate, then browsed the Arab Market on the way to the Madrasa, Granada Cathedral, and Royal Chapel. The hot and uphill climb to the Royal Convent of Santa Isabel awarded us with cookies and macaroons through a revolving wooden door. After visiting Dar al-Horra, we dined al fresco in the Albaicin neighborhood on gazpacho, tomatoes, and grilled squid, then returned for siesta at the hotel before a flamenco show at Jardin de Zoraya, sunset views from Mirador San Nicolas, and dinner at Los Manueles, where we sampled beefy albondigas, more gazpacho, deep-fried eggplant with molasses, and killer codfish and oxtail. On Tuesday, we queued up early to beat out the tour groups at Alhambra to visit the impressive Nasrid Palaces, Alcazaba, and Generalife. Returning downhill, we were less impressed by the Paseo de los Tristes and El Banuelo along the Carrera del Darro. After yummy seafood tapas at Bar Los Diamantes, we relaxed at Hammam Al Andalus with a long soak, scrub, and massage, then returned to a livelier Paseo to dine beside Alhambra with jamon Iberica, gambas of Motril, and black ink paella. A Wednesday morning train delivered us to Cordoba, where we explored the Alacazar de los Reyes Cristianos, strolled past the Roman Bridge, and secured last-minute tickets to the Mezquita, where we appreciated the unique juxtaposition of Catholic and Muslim architecture. We stopped for fresh patatas fritas on the way to Palacio de Viana, where the 12 different patio styles showed us how rich people show off. We sampled empanadas for lunch, then enjoyed our hotel’s rooftop patio for sunset views of the Mosque-Cathedral before dinner. A refreshing breakfast at our hotel courtyard fueled our early shopping and synagogue visit in the Jewish Quarter. With a pastella de Cordoba in hand, we caught the train to Seville to check into our Airbnb at Casa Palacio Gandesa, where the interior felt decadent with library murals and busts of Spanish emperors. The line moved quickly at El Rinconcillo, where we enjoyed pavas de bacalao, ensaladilla, fried fish, and the chalk order directly on the counter. We watched the Supermercado Mas staff unjam their machine for some fresh-squeezed OJ before a siesta of Severance episodes, followed by less-tasty paella for dinner. We started Friday strolling with churros to the Plaza de Espana and Maria Luisa Park, and got lost inside the maze of Real Alcazar’s expansive interior and gardens. The long line to visit the Seville Cathedral took a good chunk out of our planned itinerary, so we skipped climbing La Giralda and headed to lunch at Castizo for excellent cod and rice. Despite an afternoon nap before our evening show at the Museo Baile Flamenco, we fell asleep and missed dinner that night, but were refreshed for our Saturday in Triana. We skipped the soggy-looking churros at Especialista for fresh ones at Mercado de Triana, followed by purchases of jamon, cheeses, and sausage snack cups, and shopping for ceramic bulls and a skinny suit for the meeting banquet. Lunch at Blanco Paloma included crispy croquettes, stuffed aubergines, and sizzling gambas casserole that put us to slumber again before dinner at Al Wadi for kebap and kabseh with lamb that was indistinguishable from chicken. We left Anadalusia in an early-morning Uber with fond memories of the region’s evocative architecture, fresh seafood, and friendly culture.